Here we see an early attempt (on my part) to create a historic costume, in this case copied from a 16th century German painting. Although I had adequately researched the look of the thing, I had little idea how to construct it, which caused me to run into problems. Still, it turned out perfectly serviceable for costume purposes.

Materials and Supplies

Pillowcase
5-6 yards of dark blue cotton velvet
Shirt I already had
Gold braid
Seam binding
Grommet maker
1/4 yard 1/2 inch wide elastic
1/8 yard off-white synthetic "silk"

Construction

I came up with the pattern for the bodice using a pillowcase--I started pinning the pillowcase on myself and cutting away to arrive at the shape I desired (this was before I owned a dressform). I was trying to avoid using darts, which are not a construction technique appropriate to this era. I would say that this worked reasonably well, except that I later discovered that it fit better backwards from the way I intended (laced up the front rather than the back), which probably gives a sense of how haphazard it was.

The skirt was more simple, because I simply gathered in as much fabric as I could. I intended to sew the skirt to the bodice, but quickly discovered that the fabric was far too heavy to be supported in this way. Had I researched construction methods better, I would have known that this plan was unviable--the 16th century Germans having discovered it long before I did. Instead, I used some seam binding I had on hand to create a sort of suspenders-like arrangement, with the straps invisible under the bodice.

The headdress consists of two near-ovals of fabric with one flat side each. The elastic band goes around the head, with the flat side of the off-white fabric tucked into it. Then the dark-blue velvet oval is carefully pinned to the off-white fabric.

Results

This get-up definitely has the feel that it's held together with paper-clips (and it practically is) but it is just fine for costume purposes, and I invariably get my picture taken by lots of tourists while wearing it.

Interestingly (to me), many people mistakenly assume it is a nun costume. Somehow the look of the headdress, which was once ubiquitous but now is only seen on nuns, overpowers the less monastic look of the rest of the costume.

Photo of costume at the Cloisters
Pauquet